Journal: Sunday 28 June 2009

Slept late today and didn’t have breakfast. We decided to go to Da’s house for lunch and to spend the afternoon. We left at about 10:00am.

His mom was at a wedding to prepare the food, so the brother-in-law was making lunch for everyone. It was some sort of a soup. Da’s mom sent some bags of food from the wedding, so we had more than just the soup. One was fried beef with some onions, the other was fried pork with mushrooms.

It was hot as usual and we went back to the house to rest. Later it started to get cool and then started to rain ever so lightly. This was an unusual rain because it continued for the rest of the afternoon and into the evening, and it wasn’t terribly heavy.

We took advantage of a slight break in the rain to head back to town to attend the Christian Fellowship at

4:00pm. The rain started halfway there, so we arrived a little wet. It was a good service.

Afterwards we decided to go to the Old Market to pick up some things I needed for the house: hangers, laundry soap and rugs. I also stopped at my student’s mother’s stand to pick up some more fruit, too. Tonight it was chicken egg bananas, mangosteens and custard apples. I love tropical fruit. Even the names are exotic.

In this photo (top l to r): lichee (small red bumpy), custard apple (medium green bumpy, longan (small yellowish), mangosteen (purplish/brown with white interior), rambutan (spiky), and tamarind (smooth brown snaky-looking)

Custard Apple, sweet and delicate

Mangosteen, white and slightly sweet.

Chicken Egg Banana, small and oh so sweet

We went back to the house to relax a little and put away the things. I actually washed a few things, then we headed back out to enjoy Indian food at our favorite restaurant called India Gate. The owner was really excited to see us, especially since it had been so long since I had been there. We both got Thali sets, but I got the vegetable and he got the non-vegetable. It was such a cool evening that dinner was really pleasant.

Before heading back to the house we stopped in at Zanzybar where Da’s friend Sochea is working. We had a drink and his friend Nara came, then another that I can’t remember his name.

Time for bed!

Journal: Saturday 27 June 2009

Yay! Finally, today is moving day. We moved to the new room. It required only 2 tuk-tuk trips to take my bags and all of Da’s other stuff like the fridge, fan, table, chair and a huge box of unknown contents.

I’m happy to be in the new room. It’s bigger, brighter and quieter. Plus, it’s much closer to downtown on a much less bumpy road, so it won’t be such a hassle driving back and forth. The bathroom is not so big and the toilet doesn’t automatically flush, which means you have to pour water down it to flush it. But, there is a kitchen counter with a sink and a back door to allow a breeze to blow through. Also, I now have a wardrobe to hang my things.

Some things I still need to get to completely make it home:

• Hangers
• Rattan shelf
• Two rattan lounge chairs (to chill out on the veranda)
• Clothes bar to hang towels to dry

Finally after sweeping, moving the wardrobe and bed into better locations, putting some things away and making the bed we were both hot and sweaty and ready for lunch. Off to Common Grounds for lunch and a cool place to use the computer.

Today I had a grilled cheese sandwich that came with a really nice garden salad. Spent the rest of the afternoon chilling in the café. Dinner was a quick stop for fried rice, the back home to eat it. A fairly uneventful day.

Journal: Friday 26 June 2009

The morning started out with a final visit to the hotel for a send-off of our clients. We enjoyed breakfast at Soup Dragon and then followed that with some time at Common Grounds for internet time.

I finally called my mom to let her know I arrived safely. I know, bad daughter. But, she comes to expect this from me. I take a long time to call home. Really I just didn’t have internet access at a decent time for her.

When we arrived at the café, I was stunned at the news on CNN saying that Michael Jackson had died. What a loss! But I never really was all that fond of his music. I can remember when Thriller was out, I was in sixth grade and intentionally chose Lionel Ritchie as my favorite singer just to be opposite of everyone else. I still prefer Lionel over Michael.

Lunch was Beef Lok Lak. I prefer to cook it myself, but this was tasty enough. Making it is very simple. All you need is some beef that you slice into bite-sized pieces, steamed rice, freshly sliced cucumber, tomato and onion with some lettuce leaves, and finally a sauce made of freshly ground pepper, salt and lime juice squeezed over at the last minute.

If you want to know how to prepare Lok Lak, go to Kitchen Surprises.

We stayed at the café until mid-afternoon. We left to go get my massage that Da had promised me. He gets a really good price ($2/hour). I must say, however, that every massage that I have had in Cambodia is different. No two are alike.

The massage began with a foot wash. Then I traded my sandals for some plastic flip-flops and head upstairs to a room with three mats on the floor. I was instructed to change, which meant to take off my clothes and put on the T-shirt and pants provided. However, the pajama pants were a size Asian too small so there was no way I was getting into those. The T-shirt might have fitted, but I just took off my clothes and laid under the blanket.

When the girl returned (without knocking I might add), and she saw me lying there, she indicated that putting my shirt back on was ok, then she quickly decided, “No change.” This meant I had to put all my clothes back on. So silly.

On to the massage. . . I have never been so manhandled in my life. I swear she had Superman thumbs. I think that she felt she had to squeeze and kneed extra hard because I was so much bigger than what she is used to. It was not relaxing in the least. I could have sworn I was going to wake up the next day with bruises all over my arms and legs.

She massaged some of the strangest places. I think she rather enjoyed kneeding my backside and inner thighs, with all the extra squishiness. She was a pincher, too. My arms were squeezed and pinched. Everything always ended with a pummeling by her hands. Bang, bang, bang. Bonk, bonk, bonk.

If you like it a little rough (all you S & M types), I highly recommend a Cambodian massage.

Nothing else happened that evening. Da left early to go back home and I stayed in the hot room reading my book (Fall on Your Knees). Another day ended.

Journal: Thursday 25 June 2009

Today we decided to breakfast at another location, Common Grounds Café, where we usually spend the afternoon utilizing their free WiFi. Unfortunately, today the WiFi wasn’t working so we headed over to the Singing Tree Center to try out their wireless, but that was also not working either. As it neared noon, the heat was rising and we wanted to go somewhere to use the internet, so back again to Common Grounds.

We just wiled away the afternoon on the internet. There’s really nothing much else to do as I haven’t gotten any further updates from Heritage Watch. Until then it’s chill out time. I guess I should be thinking more about my research.

Eventually the evening came and we decided to do a little souvenir shopping to find a suitable thank-you gift for our clients who will be leaving tomorrow. Off to the Angkor Night Market we went, braving the heat and humidity.

I was thinking some spices and a krama would be a nice gift. Da was thinking a wall hanging or stone rubbing would be better. Of course after wandering around and working up a sweat, we settled on a variety of Cambodian teas and coffee packaged in lovely, colorful palm leaf baskets. We found a nice little bag with Angkor Wat embroidered on it to place the teas in.

Back to the room to drop of the computers and head back out to the restaurant to pay the bill and give the clients their gift. We had a dinner of fried rice and headed back to the room.

Upon arrival there was no electricity. No electricity means no fan! That would not work, so Da suggested we go back out. Grudgingly I agreed because I’d rather have the air rushing past me on the motorbike than sitting in stagnant heat, tired as I was.

We headed through town and out to the Pyung Yi exposition grounds which has turned into a night-time picnic spot for Cambodians. There are even some carnival rides and games set up out there now.

An hour was all we needed because when we got back the electricity had come back on. Relief! A shower and bedtime for me. Tomorrow’s moving day.

Journal: Wednesday 24 June 2009

Same old breakfast at Soup Dragon. After we went to check on the room and to pay the deposit, but were surprised at the funeral set-up in the yard. Apparently the son of the old woman had died. His sister told us that he had some mental problems and had run off on Monday. They found him the day before in the Siem Reap River. Such a sad thing, but she didn’t seem sad, more relieved. Move in day will be Friday, to allow them time to hold the funeral.

We had some errands to run to take care of arrangements for our clients on a tour, then it was lunch at the friend's restaurant for Samlor Majou Groen and fried ginger with pork.

We rested a bit at the room, then I got a message from a Couchsurfer about meeting for coffee that afternoon. At a little before 3pm we arrived at Common Grounds to wait for the visitor. She was a German living and working on Penang in Malaysia, though she had just finished her job and was traveling around SE Asia before returning to Germany.

We had a great time chatting and sharing travel stories. Eventually it was getting close to dinner time so I recommended Khmer Kitchen for some good food, plus it can be cooked vegetarian for her. We walked over as Da drove. On the way I spotted a roasted banana vendor and bought some for her to try. Those are my favorite snacks and could eat them every day!

We had a great meal at Khmer Kitchen. I ordered my favorite: fried pumpkin with tofu. She got a veggie amok and really enjoyed it. Then it was time for her to go and we headed to the restaurant where the clients would be eating that night to take care of the bill.

Back to the room for a shower and time for bed. I've been an early bird lately cause it's been so hot and stuffy even with a fan. Last night was probably the worst so far. Plus, my right shoulder has been really bothering me and it makes it hard to sleep comfortably. I'm hoping the new room will have a more comfortable bed.

Journal: Tuesday 23 June 2009

Same old breakfast at Soup Dragon. After we drove to look for a new room to rent. We were given a heads up that there were some possible rooms available in the Artisans Angkor area, so off we went. Drove past a place, then came back. At first the old women said that she didn’t have a key, but then she decided that there were more rooms at the back of the property and were led there by one of the current tenants.

The room is much larger than the current one with a back door to allow for a cross breeze. There’s a sick and a counter where we can cook and wash clothes. The bed is a double and the room includes a wardrobe. There are very high ceilings. I like that this is a quiet area. You could say that there’s a large garden just past the large veranda (perfect for sitting on during the evenings), but it’s really just an empty lot filled with overgrown weeds that look lush during the rainy season.

Da decided he wanted it, so he told the woman he’d be back that evening to pay the deposit.

Next was a visit to ACE to check in with the director and see what was in store for me. The familiar faces were very warm and welcoming. Savoen was still there running the office, though he now has an assistant. Steve was there to welcome me back and introduce me to Shirley, the new director. We went into her office for a quick chat. She just wanted to check on the number of hours I could work and my willingness to be flexible. She made some comment about hearing stories about me. I’m not sure if that was meant to be a threat or what. It was just a strange thing to say. I suppose she could have heard both good and bad.

Steve then took me on a tour of the new rooms in the back. There’s 3 levels of classrooms with a computer lab and learning center on the top. Now there are over 1,000 students. He shared a bit about some of the new ways of doing things that have since been instituted by Shirley, mentioning that things are more professional now. I think it will be good to be back. I hope to be a breath of fresh air to uphold whatever good things have been said about me and to put down any of the negative comments. That’s the benefit of coming in for such a short time, too.

Lunch was out at the family’s house. He had to pick up water for the clients. It was a tasty lunch of fried morning glory with pork, roasted dried & salted fish and some fried sausage (all with rice of course). A visit to the house wouldn’t be complete without saying hello to the little baby, too.

We didn’t stay too long since we had things to do in town to prepare for the clients arriving that afternoon. We headed back to the room to pick up our computers and head to Common Grounds for some internet time. At about 4pm we head to the Borei Angkor Hotel for a tour and to meet the clients. Such a beautiful hotel. The clients are friends of my friend Allen. It was a family of 5 touring SE Asia.

It didn’t rain all day, but rained at night instead.

Journal: Monday 22 June 2009

The day started with breakfast at Soup Dragon. Our regular of chicken noodle soup and an iced coffee for me. We had some errands to run with a first stop at the post office to pay a very delinquent post office box fee. It’s $15 / year and Da hadn’t paid for 2 years.

Following the post office was a visit to the bank to deposit my money and make sure my account was ok. I first tried using my ATM card but it was taken by the machine since it had expired in November 2008. So, I went into the main area to get it all sorted out. Of course it was not without a lecture by the bank worker about an expired card and why didn’t I pick up my new card. She started to tell me that I would have to pay $5 for a new card since I hadn’t picked up my re-issued card within 2 months. I politely told her that that was preposterous since I never received a phone call, nor was I here to pick it up. I should not have to pay for a new card simply because they didn’t contact me. It all worked out just fine, except that there was another admonishment about not leaving my account untouched for more than a year or they would be charging fees, etc.

After all that, I managed to deposit some of my money into my account with the promise that I wouldn’t let it lapse again. We’ll see if my new card is ready on the following Monday when she promised. I have little hopes since last year I waited 2 months for a new pin which never arrived.

Our final stop before lunch was the Old Market to do a little shopping. I had to pick up some soap, shampoo, toilet paper and postcards. The woman who I used purchase those things from in the past still remembered me. Next was to buy postcards. The aim was to get them for 50 cents. The women we went to originally started at 3,000 Riel, but because I was going to buy 10 packages, she agreed to our offer. 100 postcards for $5: such a deal.

We continued on to buy some fruit and eggs. The woman who I used to buy my vegetables from (a former student’s mother) was now only selling fruit, so buying from her was natural. The eggs were just opposite her, too.

We took our prizes home for a home cooked lunch of steamed rice, hard-boiled eggs and beef jerky. Yum! Not really something I would choose to eat every day, but if necessary I think I could do it. Maybe.

We spent our afternoon at Common Grounds Cafe to use the internet in an air-conditioned location out of the heat and humidity. Dinner was out one of my favorite places to go, Da's friend's restaurant, where we get really great Cambodian food for decent prices. Though now they've raised their prices to 7,000 Riel ($1.75) per dish, but that's still 2 dishes for the price of one cheap dish in a tourist place plus we get rice and iced tea included.

My favorite is the Samlor Majou Groen, a sour sour made with morning glory plants and beef. We also like to order fried ginger with pork, a fish paste & pork omelette or pork spare ribs.

Arrival in Cambodia

Left San Francisco at 1:30ish a.m. on Thursday June 18th. Arrived in Taipei at 5:30ish a.m. twelve hours later on Friday June 19th. Just a 3 1/2 hour flight to Phnom Penh and at 9:30ish a.m. I arrived.

Da was there to greet me. I almost thought I wouldn't get out of the terminal because I had to check in my carry-on suitcase and didn't realize that it would actually be put in with the checked bags and not returned to me after disembarking the plane on arrival.

Once realizing my mistake I had to convince the airport staff to take me through customs and to the baggage carousel to wait for my carry-on. "Why would you leave your valuables in that suitcase?" She questioned. "Because I wasn't told that they wouldn't return it to me immediately after the flight." (Duh!)

So, after a little delay, I got my suitcase and headed back to get my visa, go through the checkpoint, pick up my other suitcases and go through customs. Easy peasy.

It was so good to see Da after more than 1 year. We took a minivan to a hotel in the city where I could shower and freshen up. I was actually surprised that I wasn't more sore from the long flight. I was worse after one night on the crummy hotel bed.

We walked down to Soriya Market for lunch and to do a little shopping, then back to the hotel for a rest. I met the staff from Heritage Watch at 3:00 p.m. Then it was back to the hotel again where we met up with Da's brother, Houy, and a cousin for a short time.

The plan was to have dinner at the new KFC (I know, eating fast food in Cambodia is not exactly a thrill.). Unfortunately (or fortunately), I fell asleep and was out for the rest of the night. No KFC on that day. But, there's one coming to Siem Reap soon!

On Saturday we took the Capitol bus at 10:15 a.m. (more like 10:45) to Siem Reap. After 2 stops we arrived at about 4:30 p.m. at the Old Market where his older brother was waiting to pick us up and drive us to the office/room where I'll be staying.

It's nothing special and quite far off the beaten track. The hope is to find something else really soon.

After dropping off the luggage we headed up up to Prie Khmeang to see the family. Everyone was so excited to see me. My Khmer did not kick into overdrive, though, and I felt like I had gone back several paces in my ability to communicate. We had dinner there of some kind of soup and fried pork dish. They were good. I like eating his mom's cooking.

Sunday would be a big day as it was the ceremony to bless his sister's baby and to release her from sleeping over the heated bed. We had to be there before 9:00 a.m. for the ceremony attended by the older people, including his grandfather who led the ceremony.

The baby is very quiet and calm. I haven't heard a peep out of him. And wouldn't you know it, but Da gave him the name of James without even knowing that it was my dad's name.

We stayed the afternoon. It was hot and uncomfortable. It took Da nearly an hour, after several tries, to hang a hammock for me to lay in. I was glad to have it eventually cause my backside does not enjoy sitting on all of the hard surfaces around here.

We got back into town just in time to refresh ourselves and go to the Christian Fellowship of Siem Reap. It was great to see some familiar faces and reconnect. I look forward to more time to spend with these folks.

Support Heritage Watch

I have the honor of interning with this organization for the summer in Cambodia. I'm so excited to be working with an organization that has made such a positive impact on the issue of heritage-friendly tourism in such a short time since its founding.

I love the idea of protecting Cambodia's invaluable ancient Khmer heritage for its future generations. With an amazing architectural wonder like Angkor, and the truly fabulous cultural wonder of Cambodia's living arts, Cambodia is the best place to visit in Southeast Asia.

Take the time to look into this organization and support it!

Mystic Wonder and Prill Beads

I am totally amazed by all of the products on the Mystic Wonders Inc site. From the laundry Wonder Ball to the Prill Beads, it all amazes me.

The Wonder Ball and Wonder Dryer Balls are a really cool laundering concept that is environmentally and financially friendly. Here's was the site says about them:

A laundry aid & chemical free cleaner

Simply throw the laundry ball in your washing machine, allowing you to use less laundry detergent or none at all along with this laundry aid, you be the judge.

The Prill Beads are even more exciting. This is what the site says they do:

When Prill beads are placed in a gallon of yucky tap water... in 24 hours, that water is transformed into pristine water that is free of chlorine and most contaminants are neutralized. After 1 hour you can draw off and use 3 quarts, and by adding three quarts of tap water to the remaining quart you can then draw off 3 quarts of pure water every hour for the rest of your life!!

These could really come in handy in Cambodia to start cleaning up the water sources over there. I need myself a bag or two to get started.
Mom Most Traveled is having a giveaway for the Complete Laundry System. Plus there's tons of other giveaways, great stories and timely advice, too.

Get yourself over to either of those places and check them out!

The Politics of Toilets

Article originally posted on April 22, 2009, by Rose George on Newsweek's online section called Post Global.

On Earth Day, let's not forget the dirt. The planet is soiled with sewage, on land and sea. Our waste is the biggest marine pollutant there is, according to the United Nations Environment Program. In the developing world, ninety percent of sewage is discharged untreated into oceans and rivers, where its high nutrient content can suffocate the life out of seas, contributing to dead zones (405 worldwide and counting).

There are dead zones on land, too. Human waste contaminates environments all over the world, rich and poor. Imagine getting up at 4 a.m. in darkness, trekking to a nearby bush or field, and going to the bathroom out in the open. Imagine then being hit by a farmer who doesn't like you toileting in his field, or being raped by someone taking advantage of the dark, which you need to preserve your modesty.

The quarter of the world's population without access to sanitation - not even a bucket nor a box - don't have to imagine this. It's their daily reality. What's more, all that excrement lying around has deadly consequences. More children - up to 2 million a year, or one every 15 seconds or so - die of diarrhea, 90 percent of which is due to fecal contamination in food or liquid, than of TB, malaria or HIV/AIDS. Diarrhea is the world's most effective weapon of mass destruction.

That's the gloom. The good news is that it's solvable. And solving the world's sewage mess would be such a bargain that it should appeal to politicians holding the purse strings even in these straitened times. Investing $1 in sanitation reaps $8 in health costs averted and labor days saved. Look at it another way: not investing $1 in sanitation loses you $7.

Last year the World Bank calculated that poor sanitation cost Cambodia, Indonesia, the Philippines and Vietnam between 1.4 and 7.2 percent of their GDP. When Peru had a cholera outbreak in 1991, losses from tourism and agricultural revenue were three times greater than the total money spent on sanitation in the previous decade.

If numbers are too technical, let's get practical: Installing latrines and clean water supply in a typical village has dramatic effects. . .

Continue with the rest of the article here

If you would like to help support building toilets in a village in Cambodia, leave a note in the comment section with a way to contact you, and the author will give you all the information you need to make sure this project happens.

The Cambodia Village Development Organization is trying to raise $2,000 to build a set of toilets in a small village of rural Siem Reap Province.

KR momentos up for sale likely fake, officials insist

Photo by: KYLE SHERER


Written by Sam Rith
Thursday, 23 April 2009

Former Tuol Sleng photographer Nhem En is trying to sell what he says are Pol Pot's sandals, Tuol Sleng cameras.

Nhem En with his cameras and Pol Pot's purported sandals in Siem Reap.

GOVERNMENT officials and members of civil society have expressed doubt over the authenticity of sandals supposedly worn by Pol Pot and a pair of cameras that former Khmer Rouge photographer Nhem En says come from Tuol Sleng prison.

On Sunday, Nhem En said he wanted national and international companies to bid on the shoes, made from tyre rubber, and cameras at a starting price of US$500,000, even though outside sources have not confirmed their provenance.

Youk Chhang, the director of the Documentation Centre of Cambodia, said it would be difficult to determine if the sandals were actually worn by Pol Pot, for the simple reason that many sandals look the same.

Nhem En was unable to provide the Post with any evidence that the shoes were Pol Pot's or that his cameras had come from the infamous torture centre.

But he disagreed with Youk Chhang, saying that their authenticity could be proven "with modern technology".

The former Tuol Sleng guard who photographed prisoners said he received the shoes in 2000 from General Khim Tean, a former Khmer Rouge army commander, and that he had personally brought the cameras from Tuol Sleng to his father's house in 1977. Many, however, remain sceptical.

"I do not believe [the shoes and cameras] are real, because I have not seen them yet," said Culture Minister Him Chhem.

Pen Samitthy, president of the Club of Cambodian Journalists and editor-in-chief of Rasmey Kampuchea, turned down Nhem En's request to hold a press conference announcing the sale. Nhem En said he will hold his own press conference on Friday in Siem Reap.

Poverty = Desperation. Cambodians will sell anything to make a "buck" even if it means devaluing their own history or cultural heritage.

Evicted to life in limbo

Photo by: SOVANN PHILONG

Written by May Titthara
Thursday, 23 April 2009

Thousands of people living in Phnom Penh slums say they will soon be relocated, and many fear their new homes could bring more hardship.

Chun Bunthol, from Phnom Penh's Rik Reay community, stacks car tyres to be burned in protest against the construction of the Bassac Garden City, a residential project that Rik Reay villagers say will force them from their homes. He told the Post that a demonstration planned for Wednesday had been put off because the developers did not come to the work site, "but we have prepared everything. ... If they do something to us, we will protest. We are waiting for them". Rik Reay is one of several Phnom Penh communities facing destruction at the hands of development companies. The posters on the wall read, "The company is causing us great pain" and "If you want the land, you have to buy it. You cannot use a gun"

As I am doing research into local affordable housing issues, I can't help but compare it to the stark contrast of the lack of housing equity in Cambodia. Affordable housing there is made up of some pieces of sheet metal, cardboard, or if you're lucky, some bamboo strips and thatch. There is no equity in housing development in Cambodia.

Country leaders are being driven by the needs/wants/desires/hunger of developers (both national and foreign) who can shell out endless amounts of money without concern for the real needs of the county's citizens.

I guess that is left up to the non-government organizations to deal with. Poor people are not considered good investments, apparently, but the land they live or squat on is worth more than they're being compensated.

Pain of Khmer Rouge Era Lost on Cambodian Youth

I once took my Cambodian fiance and his buddies to the Tuol Sleng (S-21 Prison) Museum because I felt it was important that they see and experience their history, despite how disturbing it might be. They were all born after the Pol Pot regime existed in Phnom Penh, though they may have seen some of the activities of the Khmer Rouge soldiers, as they were still active up until the mid-1990's until Pol Pot died.


I have heard and read some of my former students' stories about their experiences from that time while they were growing up-listening to bomb blasts and ammunition fire.
I have tried to encourage my fiance to talk to his parents and grandparents about that time period, but he won't, insisting that if they wanted to talk about it then they would. I did get to experience a great ceremony one year that they grandfather organized as a thank you to the man who saved him from being taken by the Khmer Rouge. Grandfather still experienced the atrocities as he lost his arm in the attempt to save his wife from a grenade thrown by drunken soldiers.


Facing an ugly history is not easy, especially since young Cambodians don't seem to make the connection to their history and why they have so much available to them today.

Arantxa Cedillo for The New York Times

So Mei, 5, and So Sei, 12, at the Tuol Sleng Museum in Phnom Penh. A survey found that few Cambodians under 30 were aware of the current Khmer Rouge trials.

Article by SETH MYDANS

Published: April 7, 2009

TRAPAENG SVA, Cambodia — Sum Touch has stopped trying to tell her grandchildren about the killings, starvation and terror she lived through when a Communist Khmer Rouge regime ravaged Cambodia 30 years ago.

Seth Mydans/The International Herald Tribune

Visitors looked at skulls displayed in a memorial at Choeung Ek, one of Cambodia's killing fields during the Khmer Rouge regime from 1975 to 1979, during which 1.7 million people were killed.

“It seems that even if I tell them they don’t believe what I say,” said Mrs. Sum Touch, 71, who lost many members of her family. “It hurts my heart that they don’t know what happened.”

There is a former killing field nearby and a shed filled with the skulls and bones of some of the victims. But many of the young people here, it seems, have no idea why or how they got there.

As it struggles to leave its past behind, Cambodia today suffers from a particularly painful generation gap: those who survived the brutal Khmer Rouge regime, and their children and grandchildren, who know very little about it.

“I don’t like it, but what can you do?” said Ty Leap, 52, who sells noodles and fruit drinks from a roadside stall. “It really is unbelievable that those things happened.”

For nearly four years, from 1975 to 1979, the Khmer Rouge caused the deaths of 1.7 million people from starvation, overwork and disease as well as torture and execution as they tried to construct a harsh peasant utopia.

Almost everyone here of a certain age has stories to tell of terror, abuse, hunger and the loss of family members. But those stories often fall on the deaf ears of a new generation that either cannot conceive of such brutality or seems unwilling to learn about it.

“Some older people get so upset at their children for not believing that they say, ‘I wish the Khmer Rouge time would happen again; then you’d believe it,’ ” Mr. Ty Leap said.

As much as 70 percent of Cambodia’s population is under the age of 30, and four out of five members of this young generation know little or nothing about the Khmer Rouge years, according to a survey last fall by the Human Rights Center at the University of California, Berkeley.

That ignorance — among both young and older — seems also to embrace the trials of five major Khmer Rouge figures that began last month, a process that is meant, in part, to begin a process of healing and closure.

Read more here.

Cambodia Drives up HIV/AIDS Awareness

I just wonder how they get so many people to take a drivers license test.

Cambodian Government Plans To Use Drivers License Tests To Raise HIV/AIDS Awareness

In an effort to increase HIV/AIDS awareness among drivers -- particularly professional truck drivers, many of whom visit commercial sex workers while on the road -- the Cambodian government plans to add questions about the disease to the driver's license exam administered by the Ministry of Public Works and Transport, the Phnom Penh Post reports. The test later this year will include approximately 12 questions about HIV/AIDS. The ministry receives about 2,000 applications for licenses monthly, Keo Savin of the Land Transport Department said, adding that there are 1.14 million registered cars and motorbikes and 405,00 registered drivers in Cambodia. The project is receiving support from the Asian Development Bank.

According to Ung Chun Hour, the ministry's director-general of transport, the ministry is collaborating with the National AIDS Authority at the Ministry of Health to finalize the questions. Chun Hour said, "It is important that drivers -- particularly professional drivers -- know about HIV/AIDS. Professional truck drivers live far from home and are more likely to use sex partners."

Teng Kunthy, secretary-general of the National Aids Authority, said plans to include questions about HIV/AIDS on driving tests come in light of the fact that Cambodia's roads are improving, resulting in more truck drivers traveling within Cambodia and to other neighboring countries, the Post reports. He said, "We are worried that when they stop along their route, they often look for sex partners -- that's why we want to educate them during their driving test, so they know to take care of themselves." According to Kunthy, the next stage is to raise awareness among people who live on the busiest trucking routes (Channyda/Kunthear, Phnom Penh Post, 3/27).

Saving children from Cambodia's trash heap

If we could all be as bold and courageous as Noun. To turn an emotional response into action is very admirable indeed. Here's a bit of her story.

Walking down a street in Cambodia's capital city, Phymean Noun finished her lunch and tossed her chicken bones into the trash. Seconds later, she watched in horror as several children fought to reclaim her discarded food.

Noun stopped to talk with them. After hearing their stories of hardship, she knew she couldn't ignore their plight.

"I must do something to help these children get an education," she recalls thinking. "Even though they don't have money and live on the sidewalk, they deserve to go to school."

Six years after that incident, Noun is helping many of Phnom Penh's poorest children do just that.

Within weeks, she quit her job and started an organization to give underprivileged children an education. Noun spent $30,000 of her own money to get her first school off the ground.

It is no easy task. Hundreds of them risk their lives every day working to support themselves and their families.

"I have seen a lot of kids killed by the garbage trucks," she recalls. Children as young as 7 scavenge hours at a time for recyclable materials. They make cents a day selling cans, metals and plastic bags.

Noun recruits the children at the dump to attend her organization because, she says, "I don't want them to continue picking trash and living in the dump. I want them to have an opportunity to learn."

Read the rest of Noun's story here.

Or, visit the People Improvement Organization website to see how you can get involved.

What stirs your soul?

What gets your fire burning?

Act on it!

Volunteer and you might find your soul mate

If you're looking for love and not having much luck, maybe you could increase your success by getting a bit more passionate -- about helping others.

When singles write to advice columnists complaining about being lonely, they are often urged to volunteer.

Read the rest of the CNN article here.

Personally, I have not met anyone while volunteering on a project together, but I guess you could say I met my fiance while working in Cambodia. It could have been considered volunteering at the rate I was being paid. We didn't work together, but he became my trusty driver and only friend for my first 9 months there.

We now have a small tour operation and try to put together small scale development projects out in the countryside as a way to give back. We both like the idea of helping others who have less opportunities.

If you are lonely, go out and find somewhere to volunteer today!

Camping in my uncle's house

I was so excited to have a weekend off for camping up in the Santa Cruz area. The weather had been great all week.

Then the weather reports came in...RAIN predicted for Saturday and Sunday. NOOOOO!

I persisted and went anyway, irregardless of the threat of rain. After all, it seemed sunny enough.

And it was very lovely upon arriving in Santa Cruz. With bright skies with few clouds above.

Alas, it would not remain. Thankfully I thought to call my aunt. I recall hearing that my uncle was down spending time at his house (sorting through his "collections" no less). I thought I would check in to see if he was still in town.

Unfortunately he was back in Oregon, but the good news was that the house was available. My aunt had to check with the tenant, but the upstairs was available.

I passed the next couple of hours waiting for a call back at Costco (looking for dried black currants, but finding towels, Maranatha almond butter, trail mix and Jodi Picoult novels).

I was hungry, so I wandered over to Planet Fresh for a tasty burrito. I chose the Thai chicken with black beans and white rice wrapped in an onion/garlic tortilla. As I was eating it, the rain began. There went my beautiful day.

Thankfully the tenant called me to let me know where I could find the house key as she would be leaving town for the weekend. Rock on! Now I just had to get directions. I knew where the house was but just couldn't recall how to get from point A to point B.

Since I was in the vicinity of the public library, I decided to drop in on the internet section to see if I could Google the address. Unfortunately, their computers required library cards and a password. I didn't have my old library card with me and certainly didn't want to pay for a replacement. All I needed was a phonebook. Where to find a map?

I scoured the entrance area for any kind of map or public phone to no avail. Finally I walked back into the library to ask where they kept their phone books.

As I was searching for phone book map, my aunt called me back. I was not talking loudly and even moved towards the main entrance to find something to write down the directions. It wasn't good enough because one of the librarians was pointing and mouthing to me that there was no talking on phones. Oops!

But there was NO sign saying this.

All's well that ends well. I got the directions and then I was off to the house.

It had been awhile since I had last been in the house, and I had never been upstairs before. The last time I was there it was completely full of my uncle's collections. Now it was mostly cleaned out with only a couple of rooms full.

Because it's such an old, rundown house, it has the old house musty smell. But staying there was like a little discovery adventure since it still has a lot of the old fixtures.

I spent the evening relaxing and reading one of the newly purchased books by my new favorite auther, Picture Perfect by Jodi Picoult. Listening to the rain splattering the roof and dripping from the eaves is so calming.

The only downside was trying to sleep amidst the sounds of rodents scurrying about overhead in the rafters. It was a reminder of my nights in Cambodia when I was fighting the small plague of rats in my ceiling and kitchen. At least the stray cats were happy.

By morning, the rain was gone and sun was peeking through the windows. I had no hurry to go anywhere and enjoyed sleeping in late reading my book.

Now that's a relaxing weekend getaway!

I only got up to go visit Vintage Faith Church for the 11 o'clock service. It would be my first time to attend since it changed from Graceland four or so years ago. What a treat it was as Dan Kimball spoke on being missional. I could have sworn that he kept looking at me throughout the service, but maybe that was because I was the only one wearing a fuzzy, sky blue knit hat.

I can't wait to go back to spend another time at my uncle's big old red falling down musty house.

Choosing a spouse

I have recently been confronted with the question of how to choose your marriage partner. Do you go for "love", or potential financial stability? What if there is a commitment made, but another opportunity arises that may seem a better fit?

In doing a simple Google search for "how to choose a husband," the following sites proved interesting:

eHow's "How to Choose a Husband"
Choosing the right husband is just as important as choosing the right shoes that go with the handbag, that goes with the belt, that goes with the dress, that goes with the house that Jack built. Wait a minute, something in that sentence isn't right . . .

Back to the point: Marriage is or, rather, should be a lifetime commitment. With that in mind, there are a number of qualities a woman must keep in mind when choosing her partner.

Read the the four steps here.

Ezine Articles' "10 Low EQ (Emotional Intelligence) Ways to Choose a Husband"
In choosing the right man for you, you need to use your Emotional Intelligence (EQ).
Here are 10 LOW EQ ways to do it that will guarantee disaster.

1. Choosing the obvious ones to avoid.
2. Choosing by sexual attraction alone.
3. Choosing by externals alone.
4. Rushing.
5. Rushing.
6. Rushing.
7. Not checking out his attitude toward women.
8. Trusting only your intellect.
9. Trusting only your feelings.
10. Misunderstanding the nature of feelings.

Read the details here.

Your Tango's "How To Choose A Husband: Dating advice from a priest via The New York Times."
Trumping news of war, health, food, pets or fashion, the most e-mailed item currently on The New York Times' site is Maureen Dowd's column from July 6 called "An Ideal Husband."

In light of celebrity divorces stealing recent headlines, Dowd turned to a man whose motto on marriage would have to be "Do as I say, not as I do": a Catholic priest.

His advice is not of the "Thou shalt..." variety, in fact spirituality is mentioned only as a cautionary tale of the heartache experienced after the failed marriage of a devout Catholic and a devout Muslim. Instead he offers tidbits that, regardless of one's take on marriage or religion, serve as good guidelines for choosing a partner. To list a few:

• avoid mother-obsessed men
• a man with close friends and family signals an openness to intimacy
• watch out for financial inequality or irresponsibility
• laugh! a sense of humor is hugely important

That NYT readers were compelled to e-mail love and marriage advice during the past three days more than any other story reminds me of the tale about survivors of harrowing experiences, like war, who–more than anything else including the trauma itself–talk about the person they were crushing on or the one who got away during these times of stress. Ah, love.

Read the full article here.

Search Your Love's "Choose a Husband"
Whatever they tell, men marry. Men marry young, marry late in life, marry for the second and the third time. Nowadays it is rather difficult to find a real “never-marry” man. However, each has his own reason and motives to lead her down the aisle. Let us try to divide men into 8 categories, based on the reasons for making marriage proposal.

Read the 8 categories here.

Happy reading!

An Ironic Twist of Fate

U.S. Deportee Brings Street Dance to Street Boys of Cambodia

Tuy Sobil, or K.K., a former gang member from Long Beach, Calif., founded the club after being deported in 2004.


While this is an old article from November 2008, it's relevance remains. Nothing is more exciting than to read about someone who could have fallen by the wayside, but chooses to give back rather than give up.

It may be the only place in Cambodia where the children are nicknamed Homey, Frog, Floater, Fresh, Bugs and Diamond.

And there are not many places like this small courtyard, thumping with the beat of a boom box, where dozens of boys in big T-shirts are spinning on their heads and doing one-hand hops, elbow tracks, flairs, halos, air tracks and windmills. And, of course, krumping.
It is a little slice of Long Beach, Calif., brought here by a former gang member . . .


Read the rest of the article here.